New exhibit

Suit up

Courtesy Manuel, a legendary designer to the stars, fashioned a jacket for each state in the union, including this one for Oklahoma.

By JASON ASHLEY WRIGHT World Scene Writer
3/25/2007

New exhibit showcases the glitz and artistry of designer Manuel

Elvis. Dolly. Cash. Full names aren't necessary; you know who they are.

Their songs and respective talents made them stars, but helping them shine brighter was a master tailor, who doesn't bother with multiple monikers, either -- he's Manuel.

And just like his stellar clients, Manuel is hitting the road to dazzle audiences with "Manuel: The Star-Spangled Thank You Tour."

The tour, a showcase of the artist's stunning creations, will be exhibited at Gilcrease Museum March 31-July 29.

In addition to some of his celebrity creations is a special collection of jackets representing each of the 50 states.

Just don't ask him to pick a favorite.

"They're all my babies," Manuel said during a recent phone interview from his headquarters in Nashville. "It's like having 50 babies. I can't love one more than the other."

It was a long labor, too, with Manuel having started the project in 1986, he said. After years of research and hard, hand-detailed work, the Alabama-to-Wyoming collection made its debut at the Frist Center for the Visual Arts in Nashville, Tenn.

"It seems to be getting a little bit of enthusiasm

from museums," said Manuel, also noting that the exhibit had shown at the National Cowgirl Museum & Hall of Fame in Fort Worth.

The notoriety is no surprise to Jim Halsey, who's known Manuel for more than 30 years.

"He's a great artist, a great genius," said Halsey, who first met Manuel when he worked with famed rodeo tailor Nudie Cohn.

Born Manuel Arturo Jose in Mexico, he has been a "fashion designer in soul and body" since he learned to sew at 7, he said. As a youngster, he became involved in a theater group for about nine years, until he was 18.

"Making wardrobes for poor people is the greatest way of learning," he said. "I used to make tuxedos out of paper and spraypaint them black."

He learned many things during his theater tenure, which led him to America in the '50s.

"I had all the ingredients I needed to make wardrobes for great pictures, and the movie industry just embraced me," said Manuel, who worked for dozens of movies, as well as hit TV shows like "Dallas."

Manuel dressed Johnny Cash, created jumpsuits for Elvis, as well as pieces for Dolly Parton, Linda Ronstadt, The Beatles, Aerosmith, Lynyrd Skynyrd and ZZ Top. He also designed clothes for the Grammy-winning Oak Ridge Boys, who'll perform in Manuel's creations Saturday at the Brady Theater.

In the mid-'80s, Manuel decided to pay tribute to each state, drawing inspiration from each one's motto, history and culture.

"It was quite a task," he said, "but so gratifying. . . . I was into it, period, what I was finding out about this beautiful country of ours."

Halsey, who is a Gilcrease board member, told the museum about the jackets when they were at the Frist, said David Newell, curator of exhibitions at Gilcrease.

"It's stepping outside the box for us," Newell said. "It's not a traditional art installation by any means, but it still deals with art and history and American culture, which is what we're all about."

The Oklahoma jacket has flowers and cowboys embroidered on the front, with the state flag and notable Oklahomans' names on the back -- including Jim Thorpe's and Wilma Mankiller's.

"It's going to be dazzling," Newell said. "Just the sheer beauty of the garments is going to be amazing to people."

That's what Manuel hopes, anyway. He's rightfully proud of his collection.

"At my age right now, I still feel like, 'Wow! I don't want to leave this world without putting a lot of stamina in it.' " he said. "There are so many pieces to make."

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Jason Ashley Wright 581-8483
jason.wright@tulsaworld.com

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gala opening

"MANUEL: THE STAR-SPANGLED THANK YOU TOUR"

When:
Friday - 6 p.m. cocktail reception and exhibition preview; 7:30 p.m. dinner

Where:
Vista Room, Gilcrease Museum, 1400 N. Gilcrease Museum Road

Tickets:
$350. Although the reservation deadline recently passed, tickets are still available - but call soon, 596-2758.

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concert

OAK RIDGE BOYS CONCERT BENEFITING GILCREASE MUSEUM

When:
8 p.m. Saturday

Where:
Brady Theater, 105 W. Brady St.

Tickets:
$35-$45, may be purchased either over the phone at 582-7239 or at the box offi ce 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday.

By JASON ASHLEY WRIGHT World Scene Writer